Potting soil provides plants the necessary nutrients, structure and moisture retention for appropriate growth. Age and improper storage Expand potting soil. The useful life of potting soil depends on whether it is currently being used. Unused potting soil lasts approximately six months before it degrades in quality, while used potting soil should be replaced every year or two.

Potting Soil Storage

Potting soil stores best when kept in a lidded container away from heat sources and high humidity. Close the surface of this original bag and fasten it, then put it at a galvanized can or plastic bin. The storage container should be kept out of this rain and direct sun to limit bacterial growth in the soil.

Potting Soil Rejuvenation

Potting soil can take on another life if thoroughly cleaned and amended after use. Pick through the soil to remove any roots or other plant debris. Run water through the soil to leach out the extra salts, then combine it with fresh compost in a 1-to-1 ratio. A light dusting of gypsum and lime as well as roughly 1 tablespoon of general purpose fertilizer should then be added to each 1 gallon of soil.

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Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), that develops in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, might be a popular perennial flower, but just like most other perennials, the crops do not reliably bloom the first year following planting from seed. If you do not have the patience to wait three or two years on your perennials to bloom but do not wish to spend a lot of money on 2- or plants, then choose perennials that bloom the first year.

Bulbs, Corms and Rhizomes

Bulbs, corms and rhizomes are storage units capable of producing an whole plant which blooms. Bulbs like tulips (Tulipia), daffodils (Narcissus) and Asiatic lilies (Lilium spp. Oriental types) need a chilling period — a definite number of hours between 32 degrees and 45 degrees Fahrenheit — to blossom. If you reside in mild-winter regions like USDA zones 8 although 10, chill the bulbs in the fridge for 10 to 16 weeks. Other flowers, such as gladiolus (Gladiolus), are not sturdy under USDA zone 7 and need to be raised for winter. Day lilies (Hemerocallis), USDA zones 3 through 10, do not need any particular treatment to benefit you with flower after flower.

Perennials Planted From Seed That Bloom in Spring

Verbascum (Mullein) has clusters of pink flowers on spikes flourishing in spring. The blossom blooms again in autumn and goes dormant. It is a short-lived perennial, residing about three years in USDA zones 5 through 9. Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) are perennials in USDA zones 9 through 11 but do not withstand heat. They won’t endure in a coastal site that is cooler but could through a summer in a interior place. But they do with abandon reseed themselves. The plants grow from 12 inches high for its dwarf types to kinds that are 36 inches high for its rocket. Coreopis (Coreopsis) has yellow, daisylike flowers that bloom profusely in late spring in USDA zones 4 through 9.

Perennials Planted From Seed That Bloom in Summer

Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora) does well in USDA zones 3 through 8. The flower is bright yellow, with darker gold rings on the petals or red, including a striped blanket. Maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica) blooms bright reddish in USDA zones 3 through 10. Verbena (Verbena) spreads with flowers held over the plant in purple, pink and red. It is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.

Drought-Tolerant Plants

Black-eyed Susan (Rudebekia) thrives in USDA zones 4 through 9. It is often found in the Midwest growing rampant. It is drought- and heat-tolerant, with petals around a center. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) has horizontal heads of many smaller flowers in pink, yellow, red or white. The bush is gray-green with finely cut leaves. It develops in USDA zones 3. Salvia (Salvia x superba) “Violet Queen,” with its dark blue spikes of flowers, grows in USDA zones 4 through 9.

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Purple coneflower plants (Echinacea purpurea) create purple daisylike blooms on 3 1/2-foot stems. The petals of these impressive flowers fold backward, making a dark cone of deep orange at the center. When grown in sunlight for six to eight hours a day in fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 8.0 purple, coneflowers bloom from midsummer until fall. These hardy perennials thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Pollination occurs when flying insects visit the flowers and carry the pollen to new flowers.

Cross-Pollination

Purple coneflowers contain both male and female components. The male section of the bloom, the stamen, creates pollen, while the female portion, the pistil, is a receptor to the pollen. For seeds to form, the coneflower has to be pollinated via cross-pollination — which means the pollen from 1 flower has to be pulled on the pistil of a flower on a different plant.

Insects

Long-tongued mammals and mammals are the principal pollinators for your purple coneflower. As they visit the flower to sip nectar, the sticky pollen collects on their bodies and legs. This begins the first step in cross-pollination.

Pollination

Insects that have seen the coneflower soon visit the flowers on neighboring coneflower plants. When this happens the pollen on their bodies and legs is broken to the new flower. Since the female portion of the flower, the pistil, is tacky, the pollen now sticks into the pistil.

Seed Development

The pollinated flower now begins the process of creating seeds so that it can continue its life cycle. If the pollen is from exactly the same variety of coneflower, the resulting seeds will create flowers identical to the parent plants. If you’re growing several varieties of coneflowers, nevertheless, the seeds produced may create new plants distinct from the parent plants.

Considerations

If you want to save the seeds from your coneflowers for replanting the following year, do not plant more than 1 variety of coneflower in the same location. If you simply want to enjoy your coneflowers and depart the seeds for the birds, then it does not matter if other varieties are increased near your coneflowers. Cross-pollination between varieties does not impact the overall look of the blooms on your own coneflower plants.

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Undemanding, simple care Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis) is among the few perennials recognized to bloom cheerily through the dead of the winter. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, Lenten rose can endure harsh conditions in zone 3 with decent snow cover. As this plant remains evergreen through the year, rough weather leaves leaf tattered and unsightly from spring. You may enjoy its beauty more should you remove leaf that obstructs your view of the beautiful flowers and vibrant fresh greenery that appear in winter.

Use clean, sharp shears to prune old, ratty leaf from this Lenten rose plant in later winter and early spring, from late January through April. As bloom spikes emerge in the middle of this plant, older fronds tend to droop unattractively outward. Cut all of the tough, leathery aged vegetation back to young emerging growth at ground level to replenish the beautiful plant. This will expose the fresh young fronds and shy developing flowers. Lenten roses dislike overcrowding. Judicious pruning relieves the condition and helps prevent spring pests and diseases.

Clip Lenten rose blooms freely just as they begin to open to accent and revel in fresh indoor winter arrangements during the season. These beauties may last as long as fourteen days since cut flowers.

Deadhead Lenten climbed frequently during the flowering period, which lasts until May in some areas. Clip the blossom stalks back to ground level when flowers fade along with the seed pods within them swell and become evident. This will maintain your plant looking tidy and stop it from generously seeding the area.

Prune out unattractive, damaged or tattered fronds because they might occur during the year. Snip back stray or too long stems to maintain Lenten rose looking clean.

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Chayote (Sechium edule) is a tender perennial climber often grown as an annual. The plant creates 3- to 8-inch-long edible fruit. The fruit is green to yellow-green and contains a massive seed surrounded by meaty flesh. Outdoors the plant is hardy only to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 7 days, but it is possible to grow the plant inside a 5-gallon container.

Plant the whole chayote fruit in a 5-gallon, 24-inch-deep container which contains a moist soil mix of equal parts peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. Make sure the fruit is buried 4 to 6 inches deep and slanted with sprouted end down and the stem finish level with the soil. Place only 1 plant; when grown outdoors, these plants need 10 feet between them.

Place the chayote container in an area with full sun, which indoors would be an area within 2 feet of a southern- or south-facing window or a windowsill that receives ample sunlight. Place the plant container in a light or white room if possible, as this reflects the sunlight. Chayote plants need full sunlight for best fruit production. You can tell if the plant is getting too much or too little sunlight by detecting the plant growth. Spindly or pale green foliage is a sign of not enough sunlight, and scorched or burnt leaves is a sign or too much direct light.

Water chayote plants when the soil feels dry. Use your finger to feel that the soil. If the soil does not feel moist, it is time to water. Chayote plants need regular water, so never enable the soil to dry out. To raise the humidity for this tropical plant, then place the pot on a bed of moist marbles. Feed the chayote plant utilizing a liquid fertilizer or compost tea every fourteen days.

Provide a trellis to support the chayote plant because it rises. The plant is a climber, so put a trellis or other support in the container after putting the chayote.

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When you have limited space, a desire to get a beautiful hanging plant or a love for strawberries, then some hanging basket of strawberries may be for you. Inexpensive, bare root strawberries planted in hanging baskets will likely create green foliage, dainty white flowers and ruby red fruit. The health of the plant will improve as a result of the increased air circulation and the elimination of ground pests. The hanging basket you choose should complement your landscaping, have good drainage and be at least 12 inches in diameter

Place the hanging basket in front of you on a level surface. Pour the potting mix into the basket lining until the ground is 1/2 inch below the rim.

Dig three to four evenly spaced holes on the surface of the ground, 6 inches deep. The guideline is three to four plants each 12 inches, so if your planter is larger, you can plant over four.

Pour 6 inches of water to a small container. Place the bottom of the package the strawberries came in to the container and let it soak for 15 minutes.

Eliminate the package from the container and then wrap your hand around the middle. Remove the packaging material and separate the main package into individual strawberry plants.

Trim the origins of the strawberries to 6 inches using a pair of gardening shears. When the roots are shorter than 6 inches, then you don’t need to trim them.

Pick up one strawberry plant, then spread its roots out slightly and place the plant to the middle of the very first hole before the crown of the plant is even with the surface of the dirt. The crown of the plant is the point where the root system meets the stems, leaves and runners.

Gently transfer the displaced soil around the plant. Push the soil down to the edges until the crust remains upright. Repeat till you’ve planted all the strawberries.

Water the ground till it is slightly moist. Move the basket into a shaded place for a few days before moving it to its permanent place.

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